| Art
and Craft of Gujarat |
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| Dhamadka
& Ajrakh |
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The
intricate art of printing fabrics using wooden blocks
thrives in the riverside town of Jetpur, midway
Gondal and Junagadh, and earns valuable foreign
exchange along side the more modern screen-printing
workshops. Wood is cut and flattened into blocks
ranging from around 1 ½ " to 3" thickness, pin pricked
with the outline of the design to be transferred
to the fabric and finally minutely carved by chiseling.
Next, the colours are separated to fill the niches,
and the Chhipa or Khatri expertly runs the block
along the length and breadth of the fabric.
The dyed fabric is then fixed in river Gondali and kept to dry. Kutch also specializes in block printing, and vegetable dyes, paraffin wax resist, patricate-printing material. Bright ajrakh prints are still used though now synthetic dyes and modern techniques have been adopted. Dhamadka are block prints that derive their name from the village of origin, well known for its river water that brightens the colours. A range of contrasting maroons, yellows, blues and reds with patterns generated through tiny dots.
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| Tangalia
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This
fabric from Surendranagar is inlayed with thread
during weaving to create geometrical patterns and
peacock motifs.
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| Bandhani
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The
tie-dyed fabrics of Gujarat are perhaps the best
produced in India. Also known as Bandhej, it is
produced on superfine cotton mulmul, muslin sometimes
combined with gold checks and motifs worked in the
jamdani technique. The highest intensity of Bandhini
dyeing is in Kutch, but some of the best works are
from Jamnagar and Saurashtra, on the Southern coast
of Gulf of Kutch. The printed portion of the fabric
are pinched and pushed into small points and then
knotted with 2 or 3 twists of thread. The knotted
parts remain uncoloured and the fabric is dyed in
the lightest shade first, retied and dyed in the
darker colour. The fabric may be tied and dyed several
times, depending on the number of shades in the
final colour scheme. The price of the bandhini depends
not only on the fabric, but also on the number of
times it has to be tied and dyed and the intricacy
of the design. Bandhini sarees are easily available
in all the bazaars and shopping centres of Jamnagar
and here you can also find them brocaded with fine
gold thread zaris.
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| Garments
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Salwars,
kurtas, ghaghras, cholis, odhanis, skirts and jackets
are some of the garments available. Each of these
garments is created from authentic hand block-printed
material, imaginatively embellished with appliqué
patterns and embroidery, collected from remote villages
of Gujarat.
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| Brocade
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Sarees
woven with gold and silver thread known as ganga-jamuna.
The borders retain the flowing patterns of old chanderi
and paithani sarees, which were a specialty of western
India.
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| Tanchoi
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Chinese weavers first introduced tanchoi in Surat and the Parsi community used it extensively. They continue to be woven into sarees as well as fabric in silk.
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| Gharchola
and Panetar |
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These
silk sarees from Cambay are first woven with silk
and zari threads and then tie-dyed or block printed.
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| Patola
- The queen of Silks |
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The
patola is one of the finest hand-woven sarees produced
today. This is a specialty of Patan, and is famous
for extremely delicate patterns woven with great precision
and clarity. Besides Patan, Surat is acclaimed for
velvets with patola patterns.
The salvi silk weavers from Maharashtra and Karnataka
opted to make Gujarat the home of their renowned patola
fabrics. The salvis are said to have arrived in Patan
from Maharashtra and Karnataka in the 12th century
to make the most of the patronage of the Solanki Rajputs,
who then ruled all of Gujarats and parts of South
Rajasthan and Malva with the capital at Anahilwad
Patan. According to folklore, as many as 700
Patola weavers a company Raja Kumarapala to the palace
of Patan, and the ruler himself wore a Patola silk
robe on the occasion. After the fall of Solanki dynasty,
the Salvis found patronage in the affluent Gujarati
merchant, and the patola sarees soon became a status
symbol with Gujarati girls and women especially as
an important part of stridhan for the departing wedded
daughter.
The patola of Patan is done in the double ikkat style,
which is perhaps the most complicated of all textiles
designs in the whole world. Each fabric consists of
a series of warp threads and a single weft thread,
which binds the warp threads together. Each one of
the warp threads is tied and dyed according to the
pattern of the saree, such that the knotted portions
of the thread do not catch the colours. The result
is not only a tremendous richness in colour of the
fabric, but that both side of the saree look exactly
alike, and can be worn either way. In fact except
to an expert, a patola looks like a piece of silk
fabric, printed on both sides in the same design.
The weaving is done on simple traditional handlooms,
and the dyes used are made from vegetable extracts
and other natural colours, which are so fast that
there is a Gujarati saying that "the patola will tear,
but the colour will not fade." A patola saree takes
4 to 6 months to make, depending on how complicated
the designs is and if the length is 5 or 6 metres,
it can cause from Rs.50, 000/-
to over Rs. 100,000/- a
piece. Patan produces very intricate patterns worked
with precision and clarity, with the characteristic
geometric delineation of the design, while maintaining
the soft hazy outlines, a natural effect of the technique.
In an area called Sadvi Wada you can watch the complex
weaving of silk patola saris, once the preferred garment
of queens and aristocrats, and now made by just one
family.
There were four distinct styles in the patolas woven originally in Gujarat by the Salvi community. The double ikat sarees with all over patterns of flowers, parrots, dancing figures and elephants were used by the Jains and Hindus. For the Muslim Vora community special sarees with geometric and floral designs were woven for use during weddings. There were also the sarees woven for the Maharashtrian Brahmins with a plain, dark-coloured body and borders with women and birds, called the Nari Kunj. There was a cloth specially woven for the traditional export markets in the Far East.
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| Silver
and Stone Crafts |
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Gujarat's
other paramount craft is silver and iron works, found
nowhere better than in the former princely state of
Saurashtra and Kutch where descendants of the original
court swordsmiths and jewelers, now make fine beetle
nut crackers, copper coated iron bells, knives and
cutlery. The brass industry of Jamnagar is one of
the largest in India and from Kutch and Rajkot come
the famous silver engravings and ornaments that are
considered so typical of Gujarat. Anjar is a good
place to buy brass and iron utensils, cutlery, knives
and scissors. For classic chunky tribal jewellery,
you should visit Poshina, enroute from Ahmedabad to
Mt. Abu, where silver and imitation silver ornaments
can be brought from the tribals and native artisans
for very low prices. You can also watch arrows being
crafted here, and pick up knives and daggers with
beautiful sheaths and hilts.
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