| The
typical Punjabi is an extrovert, a sociable fellow who likes
to eat well, dress well. Even if he’s in
a tight spot he would like to twirl his moustache and say "Chardi kala" ("on the
up and up") to those who ask how he’s getting on. He learns quickly and assimilates
new cultures without difficulty; family honour is sacrosanct to him, but in other
matters he tends to be liberal minded. It is a matter of pride to be "up to date".
His enterprise and capacity to work hard are legendary and his deepest ambition
is to "be his own boss": many an émigré Punjabi have started life in a strange
land driving a cab or working in a café and gone on to buy out the owner within
a couple of years.
|
| A
generation ago, the turban was the "crowning glory" of all Punjabis whether Muslim,
Hindu or Sikh. Muslims and Hindus have given up their turbans, but it remains,
literally, an article of faith for Sikh men whose religion forbids them to cut
their hair. The kurta, a long straight-cut, loose shirt teamed with pyjamas, the
loose baggy salwar, or a kind of sarong called a loongi or tehmat makes up the
traditional dress for men. Winter sees the rustic Punjabi in colourful sweaters
that wives and mothers are so skilled in making. A blanket finishes his ensemble.
When the urban, educated Punjabi steps out to work he will be in shirt and pant
or a suit—sartorially indistinguishable from his counterparts in Tokyo or Toronto.
Back home in the evening, he is likely to be found in more traditional dress.
The traditional Punjabi shoes, called juttis retain their popularity with both
rural and urban men; they are both elegant and comfortable. Patiala and Muktsar
are famous for juttis.
It
is impossible to tell by dress whether a Punjabi woman is a Hindu, Muslim, Sikh
or Christian – they all dress in salwar topped by a kameez (a garment that can
be fitted like a dress loose like the kurta) and accented by a rectangular scarf
about 2.5 metres long called the chunni or duppatta . She’s fond of her sweaters,
but she is passionately proud of her collection of woollen shawls. These can be
breathtaking. The women of Punjab are responsible for the state’s most famous
item of handicraft – the phulkari. This is a shawl completely covered in dense
silk embroidery, folk motifs in jewel-tones on an ochre background. Gold is her
weakness – brides are loaded with it. The jewellers of Punjab stock an enormous
range of designs in bangles, necklaces, rings and earrings, nose-pins, ornaments
to pin in the hair, anklets and toe-rings. A particular kind of bangle is the
tip-off in recognising Sikh men and women. It’s called a kada and is made of steel. |