|  Rising
from the heart of the Thar Desert like a golden mirage is the city of Jaislmer.
A commanding fort etched in yellow sandstone stands with all its awesome splendour,
dominating the amber-hued city.
The
city has an interesting legend associated with it, according to which, lord Krishana-the
head of the Yadav clan, foretold Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav
clan would build his kingdom atop the Trikuta Hill. his prophency was fulfilled
in 1156 A.D. when Rawal Jaisal, a descendent of the Yadav clan and a bhatti Rajput,
abandoned his fort at Lodurva and founded a new capital-jaisalmer, perched on
the Trikuta Hill. Bhati
Rajputs of Jaislmer were fedual chiefs who lived off the forced levy on the caravans
laden with precious silks and species that crossed the territory enroute Delhi-or-Sind.
These caravans earned the town great wealth.
This desert fortress close
to Rajasthan's border with Pakistan is straight out of an Arabian fairy tale.
Founded in the 12th century as a staging post for camel trains travelling between
India and Central Asia, Jaisalmer is a golden sandstone city with crenellated
city walls, a magnificent fortress and a number of exquisitely carved stone and
wooden havelis. Seen at sunset from afar, it glows with the luminescence of a
mirage. Jaisalmer's impressive fort crowns an 80m (260ft) high hill, and about
a quarter of the city's 40,000 inhabitants reside within its walls. Little has
changed here for centuries, and if ever a record-breaking effort were made to
pack as many houses, temples and palaces into a confined space, this would be
the result.
The fort is honeycombed with winding lanes, and has
formidable gateways, a maharaja's palace, a ceremonial courtyard and beautifully
carved Jain temples. The most beautiful of the havelis built by Jaisalmer's wealthy
merchants are Patwon ki Haveli, Salim Singh ki Haveli and Nathmal ki Haveli.
Despite its incredible picturesqueness, you don't have to look very hard
to realise that Jaisalmer is crumbling at an alarming rate. Its disintegration
has finally brought local, governmental, tourist and archaeological interest groups
together and a 'Jaisalmer in Jeopardy' campaign has been launched in the UK.
Camel trekking is big business in Jaisalmer and it's a great way to experience
the desert. Make sure you know exactly what you're getting for your money, because
there's ample opportunity to be disappointed. Most treks last three to four days.
The best time to go is between October and February.
Rajasthan has a
reasonably reliable bus system and a fairly extensive railway system so getting
to the city of Jaisalmer isn't too much of a hardship. You may find that some
of the railway lines have been disrupted by recent track works designed to get
you from point A to point B faster, so check local timetables for updates and
changes. If you want to experience how the other half lives, you can book yourself
onto the Palace on Wheels which passes through Jaisalmer on its regal route. It's
a mobile hotel on wheels decked out like a traditional maharaja's state carriage.
Expensive but luxurious. Jaisalmer is 795km from Delhi. |
