|  The
ancient capital of the Kalinga empire, and now the capital of Orissa, Bhubaneswar's
history goes back over 2000 years. "Bhubaneshwar" means the "abode of God" or
"master of the universe" and it was also, once known as the 'Cathedral of the
East', on account of the large number of shrines. At one time, the Bindu Sagar
tank was bordered by over 7000 temples. Of these, 500 still survive, all built
in the extravagant Oriya style. It is of these temples, that the great poet, Rabindranath
Tagore had once said - 'At all places where the eye rests, and also at places
where the eye does not rest, the busy chisel of the artist has worked incessantly.
The abode of god has been enveloped by a variety of figures depicting the good
and the evil, the great as well as the insignificant, the daily occurences of
human life....'
|
| Lingaraja
Temple
This temple is a prime example of Indian architecture, in
its most mature and fully developed state. The great Lingaraja soars above the
city, and dominates the landscape. It dates back to the 11th century, to the time,
when the Jagannath cult was at its peak in Orissa. This magnificent temple, 147
ft. high from the plinth, was built by Lalatendu Keshari of Somavamsi dynasty
in 617-657 A.D. The 'nata mandapa' (dance hall) and 'bhoga mandapa' (offerings
hall), were later added to the temple, that has evolved over different historical
periods.
By the time, the Lingaraja temple was built, the Jagannath
cult had become widespread, throughout Orissa. This is exemplified by the fact,
that the presiding deity, here, is the Svayambhu Linga - half Shiva, half Vishnu,
a unique feature of the temple. Almost all the Hindu gods and goddesses are represented
in this temple, mirroring the inherent element of harmony within the religion.
One of the noticeable features of the Lingaraj temple is its degrading architectural
beauty, as one retreats from the deul (the Sanctum Sanctorum), away towards the
bhogamandir (the hall of offerings). This is so, because the Lingaraja temple
was built by the rulers of three dynasties, over a huge span of time. The deul
was built by the prosperous Kesari dyanasty. The Muslim invasion, after that,
left the Ganga dynasty in a position, that they built the bhogamandir at the cost
of its architectural beauty.
Parasurameswara
Temple
The Parasurameswara temple, built in 650 AD, is one of the
few oldest surviving temples in Bhubaneswar. The temple built in the Kalinga school
of architecture, was dedicated to Lord Shiva but there are images of Lord Vishnu,
Yama, Surya and seven Mother goddesses. Lavishly decorated, this it has exquisite
friezes depicting animal life, human figures and floral motifs, coupled with impressive
busts of Shiva.
Just south of Parasurameswara temple is the Swaranajaleswara
temple, built in similar fashion, only the motifs on the walls depict scenes from
the Ramayana.
Vaital Deul (800 AD)
Vaital Deul is the shrine devoted to Chamunda (a tantric avatar of Goddess Kali)
or Shakti. Seated on a corpse in a dark, inner sanctum is the deity, a garland
of skulls around her neck, flanked by a jackal and an owl. The various niches
on the inner wall depict equally startling images as also scenes of tantric rituals.
It is the first of the temples to depict erotic sculptures, and is also unique
in that, that the outer surface of the vault is plain and the interiors are lavishly
embellished.
Mukteswara Temple
This 10th century temple is an important transition point, between the early and
the later phases of the Kalinga school of temple architecture. The sculptural
decoration of the Mukteswara is exquisitely executed, and it is often referred
to as the "gem of Oriya architecture". Richly sculpted, the temple offers pride
of place to tales from the Panchatantra. The niches on the outer face of the compound
wall, include Buddhist and Jain images, as well as the Hindu ones, pointing to
the unique synthesis, which was so much a part of Oriya life. The highlight of
the temple, is the magnificent torana - the decorative gateway, an arched masterpiece,
reminiscent of Buddhist influence in Orissa. The temple dedicated to Lord Shiva,
Mukteswara, is also carved with figures of ascetics in several poses of meditation.
Rajarani Temple
Built in the 11th
century, the Rajarani temple is famous for its ornate deul, or compass, decorated
with some of the most impressive Oriya temple architecture. The temple is remarkable
for the absence of any presiding deity. The temple's name is supposed to be derived
from the red-gold sandstone used in building it - rajarani being the local name
for the stone.
The deul is intricately carved with figures involved in daily
chores. The lower portion of the deul is populated by statues of eight Dipalakas,
guarding the eight cardinal directions of the temple. Between them, nymphs, embracing
couples, elephants and lions fill the niches, and decorate the pillars.Set in
a picturesque locale, the temple creates a dramatic image against the setting
sun.
Bramheswara
Temple
This temple depicts the mature Oriyan school of architecture.
The deul and the jagmohana (the porch) are exquisitely carved and for the first
time in the history of temple architecture, musicians and dancers appear on the
outer walls. Another first is the use of iron beams. In the western end, Chamunda,
Shiva and other deities are depicted. The temple houses a living deity, which
is indicated by the saffron pennant flying from the top of the sanctuary.
Udaygiri Khandagiri
7 kms from Bhubaneshwar are
the twin hills of Udaygiri and Khandagiri. Built by Kharavela around 1st-2nd century
BC, for Jain monks, these are fine specimens of Jain Cave art. The famous caves
of Hathigumpha (elephant cave) in Udaygiri, Rani Gumpha (Queen's cave) also in
Udaygiri, with upper and lower storeys, roomy courtyards and exquisitely designed
friezes stand testimony to the level of class the architectural styles had attained
as early as the first century BC. |
| The end
of January is the time when the Tribal Fair comes around. February to March,
Shivaratri is held at the Lingaraj Temple, Hakateswar Temple Atri and throughout
Orissa. Magha Saptami is held at Khandagiri outside Bhubaneshwar.
At Ashokashtami, during April/May, the idol of Lord Lingaraja is taken
out in procession, part of a chariot festival. Panashankanti (Fire-walking)
takes place in various areas on the first day of Baisakh. In June/July, the impressive
Rath Yatra takes place at Puri, Baripada and other parts of the
state. Kali Puja, in October/November, the city is lit with lamps.
Bali Yatra in October/November, a fair is held on the banks of the
Mahanadi river in Cuttack. |
Winter: October to March.