| Hieun
Tsang speaks of the Thathagata's visit to Kiu-lo-to, the ancient kingdom of Kullu.
But there is no material evidence to prove his statement true. However there are
definite archaeological evidences of institutional Buddhism at Tikka Tambarhar
(Pathiyar), Uparali Dari (Kanhiara), Lakhamandal and Chetru in the upper Kangra
region since the second century BC. Rewalsar,
located about 20 km south-west of Mandi town, is the most sacred site of Buddhism
in Himachal Pradesh. The place possesses a pristine beauty characterised by an
emerald green lake, and surrounded by thick woods on all sides. According to a
popular legend, the spirit of Guru Padmasambhava dwells on the islands floating
in the lake. A majestic pagoda-type monastery looms on the lake-shore, which enshrines
a huge stucco image of Padmasambhava. The interior is embellished with murals
in mixed Indo-Chinese style. According to legend, it was from this site that Padmasambhava
proceeded to Tibet on the invitation of King Sron Btsan Sgampo, to disseminate
dharma on the very roof of the world. It was this religion that came to be known
as Lamaism. Rewalsar is, thus, for the Buddhists what the Mecca is for
Muslims. Beyond Rohtang Pass in Lahaul valley, the
Guru Ghantal monastery, located
on the confluence of the Chandra and the Bhaga rivers, may be the oldest centre
of Buddhist pilgrimage. Downstream, on the left bank of the Chandrabhaga is Tunde
village, site of another ancient Buddhist shrine. This shrine is popularly known
as Trilokinath and enshrines an image of Boddhisatva Avalokiteshwara. The archaeological
evidence found at this site indicate that it had been a significant Buddhist as
well as Hindu pilgrimage site in the distant past. Further below at the confluence
of the Chandrabagha river and the Miyar stream, is an ancient temple of Marichi
Vajravarahi at Udaipur, the earliest surviving relic of Indian Buddhism in the
valley. It now enshrines a brass image of Mahishasurmardani. The Buddhists continue
to regard this site as a temple of Marichi Vajravarahi. Located
at around a distance of 4 km from Keylong, the district headquarters of Lahaul
and Spiti, perched on the edge of a steep precipice is the Lardang
monastery, on the left bank of the Bhaga. A multi-storeyed structure,
with white-washed walls and fluttering flags, it houses a series of enormous prayer-wheels
which revolve on the slightest touch. At a distance of around 1.5 km from Keylong
is the Shashur monastery. It was founded by Lama Dewa Gyasatshe
of Ladakh in the 17th century. This monastery is famous for its ritual-plays which
are enacted by the lamas while donning masks and exotic costumes. This three-storey
tall structure is significant in architectural terms. Due to the narrowness of
the site, the complex has been planned vertically, yet it conforms to the ancient
mandala concept. Following the up-stream course of the Chandra river,
takes one to the Spiti valley across Kunzamla. Located in the trans-Himalayan
arid and arctic zone, this region is characterised by a stark and barren landscape.
One of the oldest Buddhist establishments in the Spiti valley, is the monastery
at Gungri located deep in the Pin valley. It is the only monastery which belongs
to the red-headed sect - the Nyingmapa - founded by Padmasambhava.
The 'Gem of Himalaya', or the Tabo monastery is
the most important, oldest living monastic complex outside Tibet. It was founded
in 996 AD, on a symmetrical mandala concept. The hill-top
Ki monastery is the most prominent feature of the Spiti valley. This monastery
is an outstanding example of the monastic architecture which developed during
the fourteenth century in the wake of the Chinese influence. The monastery was
plundered in the middle of the seventeenth century by the Mongols.In the nineteenth
century, it again suffered three brutal attacks. The successive trails of destruction
and patch-up jobs have resulted in a haphazard growth of box-like structures,
and the complex now resembles a defensive fort. Among the other important monasteries
in the Spiti valley are an ancient temple at Lha-lun, and another temple complex
at Dhankar. The temples at Dhankar seem to be precariously
dangling between heaven and earth !!! Way below in the Sutlej valley
in the Kinnaur area are the temples of the Lotsaba era
at Nako. Adorned with mandala murals and stuccoes, these temples enshrine the
legendary footprints of Padmasambhava and Parguli devta. Further downstream, on
the right bank of the Sutlej, is the famous monastery-village of Kanum.
Kanum literally means the 'place of Kangyur'. It was a village rich in scriptural
learning in the eleventh century when Rin-chen-bzang-po established a school for
scholastic learning here. The Kangyur building is older than the books it houses.
The sets of Kangyur and Tangyur found here were printed out of the wooden blocks
at Narthang in 1820 AD as replacements of the originals destroyed by the Gurkhas.
The inner faces of its walls are richly embellished with many stamped square clay
tablets. The Kangyur has had the distinction of playing host, for three years,
to Hungarian scholar Alexander Csoma-de-Koros. Following the down-stream
course of the Sutlej, takes one to newly built monasteries at Moorang and Ribba.
The pilgrimage to Buddhist sites in Himachal Pradesh come to a fitting conclusion
at Parwanoo, the out-post of Himachal towards the Indian
plains, where an Ashokan Brahmi inscription was discovered recently. The inscription
on the rock known as Kali Pathari records the existence of a shelter-place for
the preachers, bhikshus and pilgrims who spread the message of Buddha into the
Himalayan interiors and beyond in the remote past.
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